Thursday, May 17, 2012

On the Road to Galilee

Packing to start our odyssey…sipping coffee on the terrace and watching morning on the Mediterranean.  The towels aren’t so fluffy and efficient here and the shower curtain doesn’t hold back the water effectively but coffee on the terrace trumps it all.

My heart was in my mouth as I took charge of the rental car.  But really, driving in Tel Aviv is almost like driving in Manhattan, just a little less organized.  In fits and starts we found our way out of the city on the main northbound highway (no. 2).  The rental cars here are prominently labeled—stickers on the door, on the windshield, all over the interior.  Almost a “steal me” temptation and certainly a way for other drivers to gauge whether I knew what I was doing.  I wasn’t serenaded with any horns, so I suppose I managed to stay within tolerable bounds.  The highway was practically empty as we headed north along the Mediterranean.  We turned off for Cesarea, hunting a bit for the actual ruins (Israel, like most countries other than the US, does not have signage skills).  Once a significant Roman port, now fully developed as a tourist and “family-friendly” resort spot.  Restaurants feature traditional Israeli cuisine such as pizza and sushi and there are the obligatory art galleries and souvenir stands.  What’s left of the Roman, Crusader and Muslim eras are worth a quick look.  Only the amphitheater is really intact and it’s a venue for concerts.  Tastes change but entertainment is still in our genes.

Turning east at Haifa, we climbed into the Galilean hills.  The land quickly became more green, less yellow and brown.  It reminded me of Tuscany, although wilder.  Slender cypress spires punctuated the empty sky, fields and orchards alternated with yellow wasteland.  The villages (towns, really, from the size) we passed were all Arab.  Galilee is where more of Israel’s Arab population lives.

Soon Lake Tiberias glimmered down among its dry hills.  I maneuvered through the tangle of Tiberias streets to our hotel, which is down near the lake shore.  We have a magnificent view from our window but we didn’t stay long to stare at it.  Instead, we headed right back out to Capernaum.  Kevin choked up, contemplating the ruins of the town where Jesus passed the major part of his life.  “They got us beat,” he said.  “Places all over New Jersey where George Washington slept, but – Jesus himself slept here.”  While he attended a service in the Catholic Church, I briefly re-visited the ruins of the synagogue a few steps away. The synagogue rests on the foundations of a synagogue that dates from Jesus’ time and is referred to as “the synagogue of Jesus.”  The church is a new addition – I don’t remember it from any previous visit – and appropriately constructed to straddle the remains of the Byzantine-era octagonal church under it.

Afterwards, we talked about the simplicity of the place, how its atmosphere contrasts to that of St. Peter’s in Rome.  The tourist aspect is missing in Capernaum, because all there is here are the churches: Orthodox and Roman Catholic, a mile apart from each other.  There is no art, no architecture, no great secular works to attract the non-religious.  Other than the ruins and the churches, Capernaum is desolate.  Olive trees and wild bushes are scattered among fallen columns and loose stones that once were part of buildings.  In such prosaic places is history made.  The shores of Galilee are dusty, choked with underbrush and backed by monotonously dun-colored hills.  Yet this was the startup site for the religion that formed Western civilization.

Evening in Tiberias had its charms, despite the reputation it (deservedly) has as a honky-tonk tourist town.  It’s vastly more built-up than I remembered, which is not surprising.  Hotels, B&Bs, schlock on sale, beach clubs with names like “Nirvana” and “Hawaii”—Israel’s version of Atlantic City without the casinos.  Tiberias has had a rum reputation since it was built (A.D. 18).  Rabbis railed at its decadence and immoral activity, but they eventually decided that the curative hot springs were acceptable and so set up shop there after the Temple was destroyed.  There they compiled the Mishna and regularized Hebrew grammar and spelling to keep Jewish learning alive after the great catastrophe.

We ate on the promenade, a comfortable but not fancy restaurant, and watched the scene.  The Sea of Galilee must have been much busier in ancient times.  There was not a boat in sight but one, which didn’t seem to be going anywhere.  The only craft that seems to be available are tour boats or rental boats.  We were surprised not to notice any private sailboats or other craft.  Honky-tonk as it is, Tiberias is quite acceptable on a May night before the tourist season opens.  Ultra-Orthodox families stroll past Arab families; one can hear tourists speak French, English and Spanish, while the Israelis speak Hebrew, Arabic and Russian.  The promenade was bathed in purple light from the sundown sky and the neon signs for ice cream and trinkets.  The flea market offered cheap, colorful clothing—made in Thailand—and jewelry and other non-essential items.  This is what life here could be—should be.

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