Since I was already dressed to go out and the day was clear,
I took advantage of the opportunity to go to the top of St. Peter’s tower. The cathedral was badly damaged in 1941 and
that’s about all of its history I absorbed.
Built of brick and in Gothic style, it stands on the site of an older
church of which the tower was entirely wood.
The replacement tower is of the same design as the wooden tower and
there’s a small elevator to take tourists up near the top. The view is panoramic but not really
picturesque. A lot of roofs, basically,
which is what you can expect to see when looking down at a very old town where
streets are narrow and houses jostle each other for space.
Returning via a random path to the hotel, I found an
establishment billing itself as an “Amber Museum” in a charmingly secluded area,
almost like a private street. The
“museum” was just an excuse for an elegant gift shop offering high-end
sculptures and display pieces incorporating amber as well as the usual
selection of jewelry. I paid 1 lat
($2.00) to see a room partially paneled in amber, like the room in Pushkino,
Russia, and displaying amber samples with trapped insects. Some of those, too, were for sale. The proprietress switched on the video screen
for a history of amber, she said, but first I had to wait through a celebration
of Latvian heritage. Nice, but not
related to amber. But it served to
remind me that nationalism is still alive, which I think we sometimes forget in
the U.S.
And so back to the hotel, for lunch and class prep. Perhaps a nap.
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